Wishing for goodwill in a time of division: Thoughts after a visit to Bethlehem long ago (and seeing a concrete wall)

Wishing for goodwill in a time of division:

Thoughts after a visit to Bethlehem long ago (and seeing a concrete wall)

Pilgrimage is at first may mean visiting holy sites, but inside lies an embarking on a journey of prayer, reflection, charity, and solidarity especially for the downtrodden in their times of trials, as well as countless other acts of faith.

But for this writer, that kind of journey isn't about faith alone. In fact, as his colleagues were thinking about the next holiest destination in the Holy Land, this writer encountered many walls and some bridges, especially on the peripheries. And from there one would say "What kind of peace being talked about when there are more walls instead of bridges? For sure one has mistaken peace for their desire of silence."

Especially in Bethlehem, known as the birthplace of the Lord Jesus Christ. As this person remembers his visit, the tour guide talked about the Palestinian Christian Situation where most are struggling out for their living- that they all depend on making crafts all for the visiting tourists be it Roman Catholic or Greek Orthodox alike, altogether looking for a rosary, or, if having enough cash, a vial containing holy soil, oil, and water. He even talked about stark reminders of the Israeli occupation- especially checkpoints that inhibit movement, and passes for Palestinians that able to enter Israel whether for work, or for the well-privileged, a chance to study. 

And because of that experience this writer would say that despite the journey's spiritual nature, that in seeing an actually exisiting truth and in the news being read, would say that the journey isn't just about visiting a holy site- but to remind of a duty to serve humanity. That in seeing the concrete walls and graffitis featuring names of martyrs and their calls of struggle, comes the thought of the need for peace that's based on justice. 

Otherwise, of what is prayer for peace if concrete walls continue to stand? Walls, be it physical or not, makes the view of peace, justice, what more of freedom, less possible. 

BEIT SAHOUR

Located east of Bethlehem, Beit Sahour, also known as "Beit Sahour an-Nasara" (Beit Sahour of the Christians), is believed to be the site of the annunciation to the shepherds (Luke 2), in which angels tell a group of shepherds about Christ's birth. The angel’s good news was not given to the noble or pious, but to workers with a low reputation. And ancient Jewish literature ranked “shepherd” as among the most despised occupations of the time — but for Jesus it was to identify himself with this occupation when he called himself “the Good Shepherd” (John 10:11). 

Popularly known for the "Shepherds Fields", Beit Sahour, the name of this historic city (the house of vigilance) reportedly stems from the Canaanite words ‘Beit’ (meaning ‘place’), and ‘Sahour’ (meaning ‘night watch’). It reflects the city's importance for shepherds, both as a grazing site during daytime and as a place of safety in the abundant caves available to the flocks at night.

And because of that event, there are churches, controlled by both Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox, situated within the site. For Catholics, a tent-shaped "chapel of the angels" was built by the Franciscans in 1953, and was designed by Italian architect Antonio Barluzzi. Inside, the church has five apses that mimics the structure of a nomadic tent, with words "Gloria in excelsis Deo, et in terra pax hominibus" are inscribed in gold proclaiming the pilgrim "Glory to God in the highest and peace to his people on earth."  

Prior to the construction of the modern church, Franciscan archaeologist Virgilio Canio Corbo excavated the site and found evidence of a large monastic establishment, dating back to a mosaic-floored 4th-century subterranean church, which was said to have been built by St. Helena, the mother of the Emperor Constantine, in the 5th century. 

CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY

Originally built by Roman Emperor Constantine the Great over the cave venerated as Christ's birthplace, this present-day basilica was built by the Roman Emperor Justinian in the 6th century, and is still maintained by both Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, and Armenian Apostolic Churches. 

Inside its halls bear a timeless legacy. That despite its surroundings occupied and almost destroyed by various conquerors (Persians, Arabs, Ottoman Turks, Crusaders alike), as well as the growing need for maintenance by its keepers (as the church is also deemed to be endangered for a long time and thus needs to be restored), the church's timeless relevance and sacredness continues to bring thousands of pilgrims, irrespective of its sects around the world.

But within its walls is far from the usual Christmas card image, that the actual place of Christ's birth is a dimly-lit cave that's originally meant to shelter animals. That place, also known as the "Grotto of the Nativity", is to be entered through its Steps located at the right of the iconostasis leading down to the subterranean cave that sometimes caused pilgrims jamming in trying to enter that sacred abode. In its pillars and walls there were crosses drawn signifying the pilgrims of centuries ago, testifying how their faith was stronger in a time when chaos surrounded them. And the silver star, where marks the spot Jesus Christ was born, is surrounded by 15 silver lamps representing the three Christian communities: six belong to the Greek Orthodox, four to the Catholics, and five to the Armenian Apostolic.

MILK GROTTO

A short distance south of the Church of the Nativity is a shrine popularly known as the Milk Grotto. 

Hollowed out of soft white rock, the site, known since the Byzantine era and restored in 1872 by the Franciscans, has been a center of pilgrimage, and continues to remain sacred to both Christians and Muslims, especially mothers who are trying to conceive. 

ccording to legend, this shrine was the place where the Holy Family found refuge during the Massacre of the Innocents, before they fled into Egypt. But the name "Milk Grotto" is derived from the story that a "drop of milk" of the Virgin Mary fell on the floor of the cave and changed its colour to white. The white "milk powder" is also known for its miraculous powers, that by mixing it with food and praying to the Our Lady, mothers believe it will increase the quantity of their milk or enable them to become pregnant.  

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These places are indeed, truly deepening the faith of many pilgrims and is visited in thousands around the world, irrespective of its sect. And to think that there are cases of scuffles especially in entering its relics- then it is not surprising for their faith seemingly compels them to enter, pray, and wipe a piece of cloth enough for a relic that not just deepens their belief but also a memory of entering that sacred site.

However, from those places where these pilgrimage sites situated, is also a center of protest. That behind being a "Shepherd's Field" Beit Sahour is also centre of Palestinian political activism, as it played a key role in the first and second Intifadas with its local activists using non-violent activism and tax resistance against Israeli occupation. They even send message of goodwill towards its Jewish neighbours, all in pursuit of "breaking bread, not bones". 

But in Bethlehem, this sacred site didn't escape from being a battlefield. In fact, according to Wikipedia, the city is surrounded by two bypass roads for Israeli settlers, leaving the inhabitants squeezed between thirty-seven Jewish enclaves, where a quarter of all West Bank settlers, roughly 170,000, live; the gap between the two roads is closed by the 8-metre high Israeli West Bank barrier, which cuts Bethlehem off from its sister city Jerusalem. Worse, that Christian families who have lived in Bethlehem for hundreds of years are being forced to leave as their land being seized, and homes bulldozed, all for the construction of Israeli settlements. Even the peaceful Beit Sahour is also affected by those seizures as the original Christian Palestinian occupants being driven out of the town, while Israeli settlements occupy their lands with the courts rule that Christian homes as illegal and thus subject to demolition by its occupiers.

And because of those experiences wouldn't be surprised that the Holy Land continues to be in a state of struggle. True indeed that Palestinians are taking arms and fight against the occupation, that one of their calls is a free Palestine "from the River to the Sea"; while concerned Jews expressed the need for addressing the Palestinian situation not by the force of arms but through a serious dialouge and recognising the Palestinian right for self-determination. Not also surprising that from the scene of war both Jews and Arabs who desired peace seriously wished to "break bread than bones" despite the risks being faced. 

For now the concrete walls continues remain stood and divided villages. Warning signs continues to threaten people with gunfire while Israeli settlements rise from the demolished villages. The other side of the walls, however, bear graffitis that expressed Palestinian opposition towards the occupation, if not some houses bear calls like "Free Palestine" to those of names of martyrs killed during the Intifada or the protests against the occupation. There are even graffitis or monuments that bear movements like George Habash's "Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine" or Nayef Hawatmeh's "Democratic Front for the Liberation of Palestine". Ironically, these left-wing Palestinian resistance leaders are themselves, Christian by their family backgrounds yet their calls for liberation are secular in description.  

Pardon if this note may end "political" than "spiritual" especially as this writer, having observed both the pilgrimage sites and the concrete walls, of poor Palestinian Christians trying to work for a living and those of the Israelis in their fortress-like settlements. This note, in recalling the writer's visit in Bethlehem would say that despite its religious nature of that journey, would say that Christ's birth is not about spiritual redemption alone but also in pursuit of social liberation- just like what the Magnificat said, how Christ, being the promised redeemer, transforms the world "where the proud will be brought low, and the humble will be lifted up; that the hungry will be fed, and the rich will go without." And from those words, isn't it that political? Even the Lord's prayer itself is also political- for the words in the prayer are the “most revolutionary words human beings could imagine” in calling for God’s Kingdom to come and for His will to be done on earth as in heaven.

Anyway, may those words "peace", "goodwill", and "justice to all" be realised.