The Culinary Capital Debate: A National Identity Beyond Titles
The recent veto of the bill to declare Pampanga the Culinary Capital of the Philippines has sparked a much-needed debate about the true essence of Filipino cuisine. President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. rejected the bill, not because he sought to diminish Pampanga’s culinary heritage, but to prevent the dangerous precedent of reducing the nation’s diverse food culture to a singular regional identity. In this case, his decision may have been exactly what the country needed.
One might ask: does a nation’s food truly depend on one region? The declaration of Pampanga as the “Culinary Capital” creates the impression that the foundation of Filipino cuisine lies solely in this province. But what does that mean for the rest of the country? What about the culinary traditions of Ilocos, the Tagalog region, the Visayas, or Mindanao, each of which offers a unique contribution to the richness of Filipino food culture? Just as China’s cuisine, renowned worldwide for its vast diversity, cannot be defined by the standards of one province, Filipino cuisine should not be reduced to one region’s flavor.
China’s culinary heritage features eight prominent regional traditions, including Sichuan, Cantonese, and Shandong, each with its own distinct flavors, ingredients, and cooking methods. A declaration that only one of these traditions represents the “culinary capital” of the country would ignore the richness of the others. In the same way, Filipino cuisine is a patchwork of diverse regional dishes—from the sinigang of the Tagalog region to the laing of Bicol and the seafood feasts of Mindanao. Every province has its own unique contribution, and each should be celebrated equally.
This debate also mirrors another ongoing discussion in Filipino food culture: the question of the “best” adobo. There is no definitive answer because each household, each region, has its own version of the dish. Some prefer it sour, others sweet; some enjoy it with coconut milk, others without. There is no universal standard, and that is what makes Filipino cuisine so unique and personal. Imposing a single version of any dish or even declaring one region as the pinnacle of Filipino food disregards this diversity.
The issue with declaring a culinary capital is not just the lack of historical context or a comprehensive study to back it up; it is the potential for it to undermine the contributions of other regions. Elevating Pampanga above all other provinces risks overshadowing the uniqueness of other culinary traditions. It could create unnecessary competition, exclusion, and division within the country. Filipino food is not a contest; it is a shared experience, and no one region should claim superiority over the others.
Perhaps the most important question to ask is: Does the designation of a culinary capital even matter? In a country as diverse as the Philippines, one region cannot possibly represent all that Filipino cuisine encompasses. Food culture is a collective experience that spans across the nation, and there is no need to pit one region against another for a title.
More crucially, such titles do not address the real problems that many Filipinos face, such as hunger and poverty. No amount of culinary recognition will solve the pressing issues of food insecurity in the country. Rather than focusing on competitive titles, energy and resources should be channeled into sustainable policies that address these fundamental issues, supporting local food systems and uplifting communities. As Chef Jam Melchor wisely stated, the focus should be on ensuring a “stronger, more sustainable future for Filipino food.”
Filipino cuisine is not about titles or accolades; it is about shared history, innovation, and regional pride. The real strength of Filipino food lies in its diversity, and it is this diversity that should be celebrated. The government should focus on policies that promote sustainability, support local farmers and chefs, and elevate Filipino food in a way that acknowledges and respects all regions equally.
While the veto may have been a setback for Pampanga’s claim, it ultimately serves as an opportunity for the country to reassess its approach to Filipino cuisine. Rather than pursuing empty titles, the Philippines should focus on preserving and celebrating its culinary heritage in a way that honors all regions. After all, Filipino food is not defined by one province—it is a tapestry woven from every corner of the archipelago.